Canal Boat Routes from Apsley Marina

One of the questions I'm asked most often before setting off on Tilly is: "Which way should we go?"

From Apsley Marina, you can head north towards Hemel Hempstead or south towards Kings Langley, Hunton Bridge and Watford. Both routes give you a proper day on the Grand Union Canal, with locks, changing scenery and plenty of opportunities to stop along the way.

You don't need to choose your route when you book. When we meet at Tilly, I'll ask what you'd like from your day. Are you bringing food with you? Would you like to stop at a pub or café? Do you have young children who will want lunch fairly early? Or would you simply like to see as much scenery as possible?

We'll then choose the route that best suits your group.

Which Canal Boat Route Should You Choose?

There's no wrong direction, but the two routes offer slightly different days.

HEAD NORTH

Best for an earlier lunch & an easy-to-plan day

✓ Fishery Inn & Fishery Wharf Cafe in around 1½–2 hours
✓ Only two locks to tackle without Paul before lunch
✓ Good choice with younger children
✓ Shaded stretches and tree-lined canal
✓ Easy to decide after lunch whether to continue or head back

Choose north if lunch timing is important.

HEAD SOUTH

Best for scenery & a relaxed cruise

✓ More steering practice before your first lock
✓ Quieter and more varied scenery
✓ Lovely places to stop with your own food
✓ Countryside, wildlife and the unusual M25 crossing
✓ The route Paul personally prefers

Choose south if scenery is your priority.

These aren't fixed itineraries. Canal travel is affected by other boats, the way locks have been left and occasional delays, so timings are always approximate.

I'll discuss all of this with you before we leave.

Heading North from Apsley Marina

Heading North can work particularly well for families with younger children who would prefer an earlier lunch stop..

The Fishery Inn and Fishery Wharf Cafe can normally be reached in around 1½–2 hours, depending on the locks and canal traffic.

Your First Locks

Shortly after leaving Apsley Marina you'll reach Lock 67.

Unlike the southern route, there isn't much cruising time before your first lock – it can be less than a minute from the marina. I'll be with you, though, and this is where the practical part of your tuition begins.

I'll show you how to approach and moor Tilly, how to secure the boat and how to operate the lock safely.

We then continue around the corner to Lock 66, which is only another minute or two away.

I normally encourage the same person to steer during this first section so they get plenty of practice, while the people operating the locks help me with both Locks 67 and 66. By the time I leave you, everyone involved has already done the job rather than simply watched somebody explain it.

The next lock, Lock 65, is only around 100 yards further along and can be seen from Lock 66.

That means everything you've just learnt should still be fresh in your mind when you tackle your first lock without me.

Lunch at The Fishery Inn or Fishery Wharf Cafe

After four locks, you'll reach the area around The Fishery Inn and Fishery Wharf Cafe.

This is the natural lunch stop for many customers travelling north.

I've eaten at The Fishery Inn several times myself and have always found the food, service and atmosphere very good.

I've not personally eaten at Fishery Wharf Cafe, but plenty of my customers have. The feedback I get is consistently positive, and it can be a particularly useful option for families looking for something a little quicker and simpler.

If you're planning to eat here, I normally recommend mooring before Lock 63 rather than going through another lock simply for the sake of it.

Depending on how a lock is set and whether another boat is using it, going through an unnecessary lock could add anything from a few minutes to considerably longer – and you'll have to do it again on the return journey.

There are usually places to moor within a short walk of both venues.

At busy times, particularly weekends and for larger groups, I recommend booking restaurants in advance.

Continuing North After Lunch

If you've made good time and would like to continue exploring, you can carry on through Lock 63.

The canal becomes pleasantly shaded in places, with overhanging trees and plenty of people using the towpath for walking, cycling and dog walking.

Continue through Lock 62 and you can eventually reach the area around Hemel Marina and Lock 61.

There's a large area here where Tilly can be turned around.

Immediately after Lock 61 is a swing bridge. Although it can be operated using the same CRT key used for the lift bridge at Apsley, I don't normally recommend going through it on a seven-hour hire.

You can potentially spend half an hour negotiating the lock and bridge, only to travel another few metres before needing to turn around and do it all again on the way home.

On the canal, going further doesn't necessarily mean having a better day.

My Suggested North Route

If I had seven hours and had brought my own food, I'd travel north towards Lock 61, turn in the wide area near Hemel Marina and choose somewhere I'd spotted along the journey for lunch on the way back.

If you'd rather eat at a restaurant, The Fishery Inn or Fishery Wharf Cafe makes the day particularly easy to manage.

Once you've eaten, you can decide how much time you have left and either explore a little further or begin your leisurely journey back to Apsley.

Heading South from Apsley Marina

If customers ask me which direction I personally prefer, I usually say south.

It's generally a little quieter, there's more varied scenery and you have several minutes to get used to steering Tilly before reaching your first lock.

Bridge 154 and Your First Steering Practice

After leaving Apsley Marina, you'll take over Tilly's tiller and cruise through Bridge 154.

It's an old canal bridge and you can still see marks inside the bridge associated with the days when boats were hauled along the canal by horses.

You'll then have several minutes to practise steering while we travel past the moored boats towards Lock 68.

That's one of the reasons I like this direction for complete beginners. You have time to get a feel for how Tilly responds before I ask you to moor for the first time.

Locks 68 and 69

At Lock 68, I'll show you how to moor Tilly and we'll go through the complete lock procedure together.

All of the locks heading south from Apsley towards Watford are downhill.

Once we've descended Lock 68, there's a short straight stretch of around 50 metres before Lock 69.

I'll normally let the person steering take Tilly along this section and moor at Lock 69 themselves. I'll be walking alongside on the towpath, so you're doing it independently but I'm still there if you need help.

We'll then complete Lock 69 together.

By this point, most groups are surprised by how quickly everything begins to make sense.

After Lock 69, you'll collect the rest of your group near Bridge 155 and continue without me.

Lock 69 to 69A – One of My Favourite Stretches

This is where the southern route starts showing why I recommend it so often.

You'll pass moored boats and travel underneath Nash Mills railway bridge before reaching a stretch with a private fishing lake alongside the canal.

It has an almost nature-reserve feel to it.

Kingfishers, herons, ducks and geese are all regularly seen around this part of the canal. There's also a small village towards the end of the stretch and a playing field on the opposite side.

After roughly 15–20 minutes you'll reach Lock 69A.

This is one of the deeper locks you'll encounter and has fewer paddles than most of the others on the route, so it can take noticeably longer to fill.

There's no need to rush it. Canal boating works best when you stop trying to beat the clock.

The Old Ovaltine Factory

After leaving Lock 69A and rounding the corner, you'll see the former Ovaltine factory site on your left.

Ovaltine production began at Kings Langley in 1913 with a small factory and just 13 workers. The operation expanded considerably during the 1920s, and the distinctive site became an important part of the area's industrial history.

The former factory buildings have since been converted into apartments.

It's a good example of the variety of this route. Within a relatively short cruise you'll experience quiet tree-lined canal, wildlife, villages and reminders of the canal's industrial past.

Lock 70 and the M25

Continue towards Lock 70 and the surroundings change again.

After leaving the lock and passing underneath a small bridge, the canal opens up. There are fields to one side and trees to the other, and eventually the huge M25 bridge appears in the distance.

Travelling underneath the M25 on a narrowboat is surprisingly interesting.

You can look up at the concrete, steel, pillars and bolts supporting one of Britain's busiest motorways while Tilly quietly passes underneath at canal speed.

Many customers mention this afterwards, particularly if they've driven over the same bridge countless times without ever thinking about what's underneath them.

If there's sufficient space and you're not obstructing other boats, it's even possible to stop beneath the bridge briefly.

A Quiet Picnic Between Locks 70 and 71

Beyond the M25, things quickly become peaceful again.

The stretch approaching Lock 71 has open fields and some lovely views.

If you've brought your own lunch, this is one of the areas I'd suggest looking for a quiet place to moor and eat.

There's no particular designated picnic spot you need to reach. That's part of the attraction.

Find somewhere you like, moor safely and enjoy it.

Lunch at The King's Lodge

For groups wanting a restaurant lunch on the southern route, The King's Lodge at Hunton Bridge is the main destination.

It's roughly three hours from the beginning of your hire, although canal timings can never be guaranteed.

The King's Lodge has an interesting history of its own. The building is associated with a hunting lodge created for King Charles I in 1642.

I've eaten there with my family on several occasions and have always enjoyed the food, service and atmosphere.

The restaurant is between Locks 71 and 72. As you pass underneath Hunton Bridge, you'll normally look for a suitable mooring beyond the bridge, making sure Tilly isn't obstructing other canal traffic.

From there it's only a short walk to the restaurant.

For a straightforward seven-hour day, a useful rule of thumb is:

Around three hours there + one hour for lunch + three hours back.

Sometimes you'll be quicker. Sometimes a lock or another boat will slow you down.

I'd rather you have spare time than spend the final hour worrying about whether you'll make it back.

Continuing Towards Watford

If you aren't stopping for lunch and you've made good time, you may be able to continue beyond The King's Lodge.

Locks 72 and 73 are relatively close together, with another pleasant village section along the canal.

Just beyond Lock 73 there's a petrol station where you can pick up food or drinks if required.

Depending on tree coverage and what's being constructed at the time, you may also catch glimpses of Warner Bros. Studios Leavesden and film sets on the hillside.

Continue further and you'll eventually reach the impressive grounds around The Grove.

The Grove estate has a long history. Historic England describes the Grade II* listed country house as having late-16th-century origins, with major rebuilding and alterations during the 18th and 19th centuries.

Today it's a luxury hotel and golf resort, and the golf course reaches the Grand Union Canal. The estate has hosted major events including the World Golf Championships in 2006, the British Masters in 2016 and the NATO leaders' meeting in 2019.

It's a lovely area to reach by boat, but I wouldn't make it your target simply because it's the furthest point you might be able to reach.

If you've taken longer than expected at the locks or encounter traffic on the return journey, travelling this far can turn a relaxing day into a race against the clock.

Sometimes the best canal day is the one where you travel less and stop more.

Canal Time Is Different to Road Time

This is something first-time customers sometimes struggle to appreciate.

You can spend around three hours travelling by narrowboat to somewhere you could reach in ten minutes by car.

That's completely normal.

The point isn't getting from A to B as quickly as possible – the journey is the day out.

Locks also make journey times unpredictable. You might arrive and find a lock perfectly set for you. On another day it may need filling or emptying first.

You might also arrive behind another boat.

Tilly can share a lock with another narrowboat, but a widebeam needs the width of the lock to itself. If you're following one, you may have to wait for the lock to be used again before it's your turn.

That's why all of my route timings are guides rather than promises.

Turning Tilly Around

Don't worry about reaching a special turning point.

At only 30ft long, Tilly can be turned in many places along the canal.

Where there's plenty of space you may be able to turn in one movement. Somewhere narrower might require a simple three- or five-point turn.

Another easy option is to secure the stern with a rope and gently push the bow around by hand.

I'll explain this before you leave.

The main thing is to choose somewhere with sufficient space, stay clear of moored boats and don't try to force Tilly off a shallow area by heavily revving the engine.

If you do touch the bottom, redistributing everyone's weight or using the pole to gently push away is normally all that's required.

Evening Hire Routes

Evening hires are slightly different.

They're available from 1 May to 31 August, with the amount of cruising time determined by sunset. In midsummer you may have close to four hours, while towards the end of August it can be nearer 2½ hours.

For that reason, we'll discuss what's realistic for your particular evening before leaving.

I usually recommend heading south.

You'll receive exactly the same briefing and practical tuition as a full-day customer, and I'll help you through Locks 68 and 69.

After that, you can cruise towards Lock 69A, find somewhere peaceful near the fishing-lake stretch to stop with your own food, or continue a little further if daylight allows.

I generally don't recommend going through Lock 70 on an evening hire. Reaching The King's Lodge and returning before sunset is also too far.

Evenings can actually be brilliant for first-time boaters and couples looking for a quiet and relaxing time.

Several couples and groups have spent the evening cruising through the first two locks with me, travelled towards 69A, turned around, moored somewhere peaceful for food and then met me again at Lock 69 for the return.

The evening light can be beautiful, the canal often feels particularly calm, and you don't need to operate any locks alone if you'd rather not.

Your Route Doesn't Have to Be Decided in Advance

You do not need to choose north or south when booking Tilly.

We'll discuss it on the day.

You're also welcome to contact me beforehand by phone, text or email if you'd like help planning your trip.

Everything is flexible.

You could even explore in both directions if you wanted to. I simply ask that you keep me updated so I know where you're likely to be towards the end of the hire.

The biggest decision I'd make beforehand is food arrangements.

If you're relying on a restaurant, that will naturally influence your route and timing. Bringing at least some food with you gives you much more flexibility because you aren't racing towards a particular destination for lunch.

What Happens at the Start of Your Day?

Your seven-hour hire begins at your booked start time, currently either 9am or 10am.

We'll meet at Tilly and start with a safety briefing, which normally takes around ten minutes.

I don't rush this.

I'd rather everybody understands what's happening and feels comfortable asking questions. I also prefer as many members of the group as possible to listen because different people remember different things.

We'll discuss your route, food plans and who's likely to steer and operate the locks.

Then we set off.

The tuition continues on the canal rather than keeping you tied up at the marina. You'll learn the controls while actually steering Tilly and learn the locks by operating the first two with me.

Once I'm happy that everyone is confident, I'll leave you to enjoy the rest of your day.

I'm available by phone throughout your hire if you need advice.

What Happens at the End of the Day?

I normally arrange to meet you at approximately the same lock where I left you in the morning.

Coming from the north that's usually around Lock 66. Returning from the south, I'll normally meet you at Lock 69.

This gives us a chance to have a chat about your day and means I can help with the final locks and take Tilly back into Apsley Marina.

It also gives us some flexibility if you're running behind schedule.

For example, walking a short distance back to Apsley can take only a few minutes while travelling the same stretch by boat and negotiating two locks can take considerably longer.

If you're ever concerned about the time, call me.

Don't try to make up time by speeding.

And if you've had enough and want to return earlier? That's absolutely fine too. Call me from the agreed point and I'll arrange to meet you.

What If the Canal Is Closed?

Occasionally something outside anyone's control changes the plan.

A damaged lock, fallen tree or Canal & River Trust stoppage can make one direction temporarily unavailable.

I keep an eye on local stoppage information and, if necessary, I'll recommend the other route.

That's happened before and it isn't a problem – there is plenty to enjoy in either direction.

A Few Things to Remember

Keep your plans flexible. Canal journey times can't be predicted to the minute.

Slow down past moored boats. This applies everywhere on the canal.

Don't chase distance. Going further doesn't necessarily make the day better.

Consider bringing some food. Even if you plan to visit a restaurant, having something aboard gives you more freedom.

Think about roles before setting off. Having someone initially willing to steer and a couple of people prepared to operate the locks makes everything easier. You can swap roles once you're comfortable.

Listen to the route advice on the day. Conditions can change, so my recommendations may occasionally differ from what's shown here.

And most importantly, ask if you're unsure. I'm available throughout the day.

Ready to Explore the Grand Union Canal?

Whether you choose the shaded northern route and lunch at The Fishery Inn, head south through the Hertfordshire countryside towards Hunton Bridge, or simply find somewhere peaceful to stop with your own food, there's no single "correct" way to spend your day on Tilly.

The route is part of the adventure.

If this will be your first time on a narrowboat, have a look at our First Time Canal Boat Hire guide. You can also learn more about Tilly, explore the Grand Union Canal, check our Hire Prices, or Book Your Day.

Canal Boat Day Hire is based at Apsley Marina in Hertfordshire, conveniently located around 23 minutes by train from London Euston.